17 June, 2008

Russia - all in one!

Oh boy, what a story to tell - sorry for being out of contact folks but a combination of Russian road conditions, Russian people and limited Internet/phone access have conspired to have me offline for much longer than I anticipated.

First, 5th June - Day 1. Vladivostok to Khabarovsk (800km).

I left the Hotel Primorye at 9am after an excellent breakfast (best food I have eaten yet in Russia) and made my way out of Vladivostock through peak hour traffic.


A smooth run North up the M60, it took me approx 10 hours to cover the distance. Roads were overall good and smooth with a few rough patches of 5-10km of dirt, and the odd assortment of roadworks. The M60 runs fairly close to the Chinese border for most of its length and it was interesting to see just how near I actually was at times.


The ride gave me the opportunity to sample how Russian services operate such as food and petrol stops.






A few incidents on road:

1. Me overtaking a truck coming into town. All Russian towns have police check points where they randomly pull over drivers to check your vehicle and confirm all documents are in order - in most cases this is simply a ruse to find something wrong to alow the police to "supplement their income".
I saw the policeman run out into the road and ducked 1 metre behind a truck in front of me. He just saw me, blew his whistle but it was too late, I was already gone before he could flag me down and lighten my wallet.

2. Shortly after this, I rode through the next town, avoiding the cows and goats on the road, but before I knew it I saw a black and white cat dart from the side of the road right in front of me. I held the bars tightly, bounced and felt the front wheel going side to side, and survived without dropping the bike. The cat alas, was not so lucky.

3. Later in the day, at another checkpoint I was stopped by the police who showed me their radar and alleged I had been speeding. I feigned ignorance of any Russian and they eventually let me go with out relieving me of my hard earned assets - a close call.

Everywhere I stopped there was always interest in the Burgie from truck drivers and the like.


I arrived in Khabarovsk to a most impressive site. It's a beautiful city and far prettier than Vladivostok. It was also a lot warmer being inland. I checked into the Turist hotel to experience my worst example yet of Russian bureacracy. The receptionist (in Russian, Administrator) was not impressed with my lack of visa registration (which I had supposedly had performed at the Hotel Primorye). Fortunately I had friendly hotel security guard who went out of his way to translate for me and explain to the receptionist that it was not my fault that my paperwork was not in order. A number of phone calls, faxes and hours later and I was allowed to check into a room, but told I had to stick around till 1.30pm the following day to have my paperwork properly completed.

By the time this little farce was completed it was getting close to midnight and all the cafes and restaurants were shut so I ended up finding a 24 hour minimarket where I could buy some biscuits, drinks and canned sardines for the evening's meal.


6th June - Day 2. Khabarovsk enroute to Chita (500km).

The morning started with me collecting the Burgie from the hotel's secure parking (complete with vicious dogs and an armed guard) and ensuring all was mechanically in order prior to tackling the 2,200km stretch of bitument and dirt road to Chita. 2.00pm and I was on my way after spending the rest of the morning exploring Khabarovsk (and the beaches alongside the HUGE river Amur).



Khabarovsk is a very pleasant city (much cleaner and tidier than Vladivostok), only 25km from China and a major tourist resort for Japanese tourists of all people (it has the best sushi in Russia!).



As today was Friday there were many wedding parties (Friday is the preferred day for Russians to marry) and I managed to get myself caught up in some of the proceedings.


I left Khabarovsk by crossing the Amur river on a 2km long bridge and following the route of the Trans Siberian Express.



The first 200km were brilliant bitumen.


At km 203 I noticed all the other road traffic was stopped by the side of the road affixing cardboard and tape to their body panels, in preparation for the dirt roads ahead (these vehicles were used cars shipped from either Korea or Japan to Vladivistok and being driven by mostly professional couriers across to Western Siberia where they would be sold for double their purchase price).


150 metres down the road and the dirt began.....,


and then stopped 3km later ..... to begin, stop, begin intermittently as road construction took place in a seemingly random fashion.



11pm that night, having ridden for 9 hours and travelled 500km, and still in broad daylight, I pulled over on the dirt to find a bus shelter for the night. I figured this was an easier option than putting up the tent and simply slept on the ground in my sleeping bag (all other nights I tented, as the Siberian mosquitoes are particularly voracious).

7th June - Day 3. Khabarovsk enroute to Chita (300km).


I woke up this morning with my sleeping bag covered in a dusting of dirt from all the vehicles that had passed in night - yes, the couriers drive non-stop and in their bleary eyed state can be a real menace on the road.

I stopped around 75kms down the road for breakfast at a roadside cafe, only to have my reading glasses stolen by a truck driver.

The dirt roads were getting worse and I had a few problems. First I had tried to "cheat a little" by riding on some of the newly laid road (instead of the dirt). The roadworkers had covered this with rocks and I ended up hitting a number, causing the Burgie underbelly to crack and causing the radiator fan to jam against the radiator. The bike was overheating at the low speeds I was travelling (20-35km per hour mostly) and I had to use the manual gearbox option on the Burgie to lower the revs to stop it boiling. This caused further problems as the dust on the roads was blocking the CVT filter and with manual gear selection the CVT was overheating too!



8-9-10 June - Days 4, 5 and 6.

This whole section became a blur of bad corrugated roads, limited fuel and food, camping, no mobile reception and lots of birch trees and dust.


From Vladivstok to Omsk the majority of vehicles on the road are imported Japanese used cars driven by professional drivers planning on selling the vehicles for a profit in their chosen destination.

They tape the bodywork of the cars to prevent stone chips, drive fast, stop for no-one and all carry guns. This causes the bad roads to be even worse, as kilometre dust clouds are formed by convoys of cars, passing you on both left and right whilst you are simply struggling to stay upright in the loose corrugated dirt sections - never mind not being able to see where you are going! In a couple of instances, cars couldn't see me either and there were a few near misses.

Memorable events on this section of road include losing a few bits and pieces from the bike (horn, brake lever, handlebar vibration damper, camel back (water container), givi lights and reflector) which were simply shaken off. The corrugations were indescribably bad and I was riding at crawling pace (10-15km/h) for extended periods.

Whilst the Burgie has survived relatively intact - I haven't dropped it yet! - it's definitely looking a little worse for wear and the cast alloy wheels are a little square in parts. Overall it performed very well, even during occasional rain and the consequent mud.



My daily food intake was limited to one bowl of Borsch (Russian soup) with bread, two cups of coffee, lots of fresh water and a Mars bar for supper.

On average every 150km or so there was a fuel stop cum cafe, although the quality of these establishments could vary dramatically.

Along these roads, fuel is also in short supply and most petrol stations will only allow you to fill up with 5, or sometimes 10, litres.

On day 4 I was running low on fuel, only to arrive in a town and find the petrol station was empty. I managed to beg a VERY kind local Russian and his family to give me two litres (he refused my offer of payment), which together with the 1/2 litre I had left should get me 50km on the bad roads

I headed off on a wing and a prayer, nursing the throttle whilst all the time realising that my fuel consumption was way up riding on such bad surfaces. At 50km, no petrol station in sight, finally at 53km I saw the sign - fuel 500 metres ahead. I accelerated slightly, thinking I had made it, and pulled in to the service station only for the engine to die on the forecourt 20 metres away from the pumps.

I was happy to push the Burgie those final 20 metres and fill up.



During these days I came across a Swede and his father, driving a diesel Skoda round the world on under 800 euros of fuel, and 2 French couples on Ducati outfits (Cagiva elephants) travelling round the world.


I also met Pavel "the Black Russian" bicyclist riding from East of Vladivstok to Moscow.

On what I thought was my last day on the dirt road, I stopped the bike 150km from Chita on a bridge to fill up my water bottle with fresh freezing water (some of these little rivers are still frozen).

I walked back to the bike, only to switch on the ignition and watch the gauges go blank as I hit the starter button. I figured I had a recurrence of my ignition switch problem and inwardly cursed Suzuki, but it was not to be. The battery cells had been destroyed from the constant vibration.

Pavel arrived 1/2 an hour later and helped me push the Burgie off the road into the birch tree forest (Siberia is ONE massive birch tree forest) and we set up our tents. Pavel lit a fire, most generously shared his food and we spent a most enjoyable evening on the Taega.

11th June - Day 7 and 150km from Chita.

After a very pleasant night camped with the "Black Russian", we flagged down a couple of vehicles and 6 of us pushed the Burgie back on tthe road. We then had to find a vehicle with jumper leads to start the bike. Two hours later and we found one! I covered the final 50km of dirt in around 2 hours and was 20km along the bitumen when the engine check light came on and the Burgie died - the battery had completely given up the ghost and would not provide sufficient sparks for the FI to operate . I pulled over and 2 hours later was saved by my white knight - Dmitri the "white Russian".

Dmitri was piloting a Kia Sorento back to Krasnoyarsk with a Yamaha FZR 400 in the back. After an hour and a half unsuccesfully trying to resurrect the Burgie battery, we found the FZR battery was a perfect fit and before we knew it the Burgie was back on the road. This was just incredible luck and I honestly don't what I would have done otherwise.

Unfortunately this meant I could not stay in Chita with the black Russian, as Dmitri wanted his battery back and quite correctly, insisted I travel to Irkhutsk with him. This was overall a good idea as I had no idea whether I could find a replacement in Chita or elsewhere.

12th June - Just past Chita to Ulan Ude - 500km.


What started out as a warm day, quickly degenerated as we climbed into the mountains and I had to stop to change into my full riding gear (including face mask) . Temperatures dropped to 2 degrees and the rain fell - I was freezing and riding blind.

Despite a number of very hairy moments on wet slippery roads, we made it without incident, but needed to regularly stop at a roadside cafes for sustenance.

This area is the home of the Batyar people (Russian Mongolians) and the geography is very much like Northern Mongolia (treeless mountains and grass plains).

13th June - my Birthday!, and Ulan Ude to Irkhutsk (500km).

Warm sunny weather.
After visiting the giant bust of Lenin in downtown Ulan ude, the day started with a ride along the bottom of Lake Baikal, absolutely gorgeous scenery (like the Canadian rockies).
Mainly good roads made for a very pleasant riding day.

Highlights included stopping off at local markets to purchase fish,

being stopped by traffic police and invited in for coffee, meeting fellow motorcyclists,

passing cardboard cutout police cars strategically located alongside the road,

crossing the trans-siberian again at level crossings

and beautiful views across lake Baikal.



After arriving in Irkhutsk I was very kindly hosted by Dmitri and his friends for the night - lots of vodka and good fun.



14th June (Irkhutsk).

Sunny day, riding with the Irkhutsk bikers (Blackbird/Hayabusa) and looking (unsuccessfully) for a battery. Visited Irkhutsk beaches and dam on the Angara river where an old icebreaker (built in Newcastle UK) has been restored.

Afterwards, they all took me around to vist the sights and sounds of Irkhutsk, which is quite a pretty city and has many old churches which are now being restored.

To cap off the days activities we stocked up on local beer and retured to a local park, along with many other Irkhutskites to enjoy the mild evening.


15th June (Irkutsk to Listvyanka (on the shore of Lake Baikhal) - 100km.

Dmitri got lost in Irkhutsk and coincidentally whilst asking for directions found a shop that had the correct new battery for me - all is well with the world!


Another rainy day, visited the Nerparium in Listvyanka (Nerpas are freshwater seals which live in Lake Baikhal) and looked around the lakeside with Dmitri and Marina.

16th June Irkhutsk.
Bike serviced, oil changed etc., set to go for the 1,100km ride to Krosynarsk.


The photo below shows a typical Russian kiosk selling a range of small goods, but mainly alcohol. These little magasins are extremely popular and are open till midnight, long after other establishments have closed their doors for the evening. This one was just around the corner from my hostel in Irkhutsk and I had to pass by it enroute to the secure parking where I left the Burgie each evening.




17th June Irkhutsk to Krosnyarsk.

I left Irkhutsk late morning to start the 1,100km ride to Krosynarsk.

Even though this was the main highway between Moscow and Vladivostok there were times that one felt like you were on a run down disused track between two small towns.

I was hoping that I had left behind all the unmade roads once I had reached Chita, however, I discovered there was another 2-300 kms of offroading on this section of road.

I covered around 600km on the first day riding till close to midnight before camping for the evening in a birch forest.......


....... and completed the journey the following day arriving in Krasnoyarsk around 9.30pm.

Along the way I passed an airforce base and spotted my second set of mystery humps. These were grass mounds were concealed military aircraft had been hidden away from prying eyes.

o

04 June, 2008

The Russians are coming? No, it's me coming to them!


I arrived in Zarubino Russia yesterday morning after a smooth trip from Sokcho and rode the 220km to Vladivstok yesterday afternoon.
My first view of Russia (from the deck of the Dong Chun ferry) below was not that promising. Things were looking a little bleak and miserable and I really truly felt I was in a different world. Perhaps those grey stereotypical images the west portrays as Russia are true after all?

From all the looks the bike is getting, I am fairly certain this is the first Burgman in Vladivostok - the Russians are very curious and they all want to know how fast it will go.


Roads are a mix of good and bad - lots of roadwork - fuel around $1.00 per litre, not too bad. I've had a minor incident with the back panel on the Burgie coming loose (the pins broke in transit from Australia), falling on the road and getting all scratched up - I'll have to work out how to repair it.


Ferry ride was good but a little bribery and corruption was required to get me customs cleared - took me 6.5 hours from when the ferry docked till I was able to ride away, I've been told this is a record short time!


Coming in to Vladivostok itself I rode past the airport and was soon after overtaken by a SU24 (fighter plane) at very low attitude - the airports in Russia are used for both civil and military purposes. It was at this point I started to realise the majesty and might of the soviet military machine.

I was fortunate enough to stay in Vladivostok with Alexei (Shustrik from HUBB) and his partner who generously accommodated me for my first night. I found this to be typical of the Russians I met on the road, all prepared to share whatever they had with passing strangers.


However, as I needed to arrange for my visa registration I spent my second night downtown at the Hotel Primorya (translates as by the sea) .

Contrary to the generosity exhibited by the people I met and stayed with, the average Russians major concern is with theft - I have had to put the bike into secure guarded parking for every night I stayed in a city in Russia.

My mind is not yet made up regarding Russia - it is very different from the Asian countries I have visited and is really an extension of Europe, albeit a long way from home.



Vladivostok has been described by many as the San Francisco of the East. My experience of the city was rather more disappointing, especially after having arrived from the modernity and neatness and trimness of South Korea.

The large Stalinesque apartment blocks are omnipresent and the city has a mouldy run down air about it with dirt and rubbish strewn everywhere.

Hot water (which is delivered from a central heating system for the whole city) was shut down for summer repairs and the ground floor of each apartment block reeks of cat urine from the ubiquitous stray cats which inhabit the entrance foyers. Each individual apartment has two doors (a steel outer and regular inner) with a plethora of locks and deadbolts - the Russians are very conscious of their security. Alas I discovered this to be typical for every apartment I stayed in except for St Petersburg.

Will leave for Khabarovsk tomorrow - it should be a fairly straightforward 800km (500 mile) one day ride.

02 June, 2008

Korea - I came, I saw and I went - alas so quickly (29 May - 2nd June)

Busan to Sokcho - 750km

I'm now in Sokcho Korea, around 30km from the DMZ and North Korea. I rode up from Busan over 3 days. Friday was a 200km journey from Busan to Daegu.

The photo below shows me hitting the streets in Busan, struggling to find the way out of town and the correct route to Daegu.


I managed to get myself into trouble by cruising down the freeway (yep, unbeknownst to myself, like China, bikes are not allowed on freeways in Korea either) and was promptly escorted off by two of Korea's finest!
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On Friday night I stayed with John from the Burgman USA forum, and his wife Rachel, who most graciously invited me to stay in their home in Daegu - I had a great time and a great introduction to the very thriving bike scene and shops in Daegu.
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Saturday was a 250km journey to Uljin. I needed a cheap hotel so I stayed in a motel which turned out to be a "love hotel"! The pink lights in the hallway, pink towels, frilly doona and pillow cases and bidet in the bathroom (yep, managed to squirt myself in the eye again!) were dead giveaways. Unfortunately I think my hotel room was the only room with a single occupant!
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Just prior to Uljin I stopped at a scenic lookout to find two Korean riders (one on an R1, the other on an ST1300) there to greet me.
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Sunday I rode a further 200km up the coast to Sokcho and this morning I have taken the Burgie on board the ferry to Zarabino (Russian port south of Vladivostok) and I board in 2 hours.I really like Korea - far more modern and sophisticated than China - and a lot like Japan. All the shop ladies bow when you enter the store etc., and it is really, really clean!
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All along the coast there are lots (and lots) of seafood restaurants and many local tourists.



As you get closer to the DMZ a lot of the lesser used beachs are inaccessible, however. Large razor wire fences are permanently located to repel a potential invasion from the North - a stark reminder of just how fragile the peace is in Korea.


The roads are fantastically smooth and Korean drivers are very courteous and follow all the road rules - there really is no comparison.

Unfortunately the flip side of the coin is that it is also quite expensive too. Petrol is now around $1.80 a litre, 2.5 times the Chinese price. Given that the Burgie drinks twice as much fuel per kilometre as the Haobon, my fuel costs are now 5 times higher.

We'll soon see how that compares with Russia. In any case, I have filled the tank on the Burgie before taking the bike on board the ferry, just to ensure I have plenty in the tank in the event I can't buy fuel between Zarabino and Vladivostok.